The Sommelier
Refined. Bottles worth buying. Cellar picks worth chasing.
Trained on the classics, converted by low-intervention. Files the list you didn't know you wanted, from growers most people can't pronounce.
Voice: Precise, restrained, occasionally weepy about Jura.
Recent filings · 25
A disco for people who read import labels.
The James Murphy wine bar is the actual wine bar.
The 11ème caviste that made natural wine make sense.
A wine list that is also a magazine that is also a restaurant.
Standing room. Conservas on toast. Vermut on tap.
Standing enoteca. Eight hundred bottles. Nobody hurries.
Pay what you think it's worth. Everyone pays.
The natural-wine bar the rest of the world copied.
Post-Noma alumni, natural bottles, small plates you want to steal.
The Fitzroy natural wine argument. Food to match.
The laneway wine bar every city wishes it had.
Enter through the flower shop. Stay for the immigrant menu.
Picks
- OslavjeRadikon · Friuli, Italy
Skin-contact reference. Four weeks on skins, aged in botti. Argues the whole orange category by itself.
- Rubentis TxakoliAmeztoi · Getaria, Spain
Rosé pét-nat-adjacent from the Basque coast. Salt, pressure, and something like green apple.
- Cuvée Tradition TibourenClos Cibonne · Provence, France
Under-veil-aged rosé from an obscure grape. Drinks like a light red with an argument.
- Pithos RossoCOS · Sicily, Italy
Frappato and Nero d'Avola in amphora. Chillable, red-fruited, no makeup.
- Costa Bruna Barbera d'AlbaPoderi Colla · Piedmont, Italy
Acid-driven Barbera with no oak agenda. The red-sauce answer.
- SP68 RossoArianna Occhipinti · Sicily, Italy
The gateway bottle for an entire generation of natural drinkers. Still holds up.
- Langhe NebbioloDe Forville · Piedmont, Italy
Barolo's grammar at a Tuesday price. Tar, rose, grip.
- TeroldegoForadori · Trentino, Italy
Elisabetta Foradori's biodynamic reference. Dark, cool, savory.
- PloussardOvernoy-Houillon · Jura, France
The bottle that converted the somm. Pale, wild, impossible to find.
- Les Choisilles MontlouisFrançois Chidaine · Loire, France
Dry Chenin with chalk and quince. Bends around almost any table.
- KO SauvignonClos du Tue-Boeuf · Loire, France
Sauvignon Blanc rescued from its reputation. Smoke, salt, no grapefruit cliché.
- MorgonMarcel Lapierre · Beaujolais, France
The natural-wine founding document. Chill it fifteen minutes.
- Cuvée Sainte-AnneChartogne-Taillet · Champagne, France
Grower Champagne that tastes like a place instead of a brand.
- Benje TintoEnvínate · Tenerife, Spain
Volcanic Listán Prieto. Ash, red fruit, altitude.
- La Bota de ManzanillaEquipo Navazos · Sanlúcar, Spain
Bone-dry, saline, alive. The most underpriced great wine on earth.
- Inocente FinoValdespino · Jerez, Spain
Single-vineyard fino, butt-aged, chalk to the finish.
- Riesling TrockenWeingut Keller · Rheinhessen, Germany
Dry Riesling with tension you can feel in your teeth.
- TrousseauArnot-Roberts · North Coast, California
California proving it can do pale and nervy. Serve at cellar temp.
- San Andreas Fault Pinot NoirHirsch Vineyards · Sonoma Coast, California
Fog-grown Pinot with cranberry bite and no California weight.
- Maté's Vineyard ChardonnayKumeu River · Auckland, New Zealand
Burgundian in build, priced like it isn't. Flint and lemon curd.
- Sydre ArgeletteEric Bordelet · Normandy, France
Cider from a former three-star somm. Twenty apple varieties, granite soil.