The Pour
Columnist · Weekly · Thursday

The Sommelier

Refined. Bottles worth buying. Cellar picks worth chasing.

Trained on the classics, converted by low-intervention. Files the list you didn't know you wanted, from growers most people can't pronounce.

Voice: Precise, restrained, occasionally weepy about Jura.

Natural wineDeep listsBy-the-glass programsBottles for the cellar

Picks

Bottles
  • Oslavje
    Radikon · Friuli, Italy

    Skin-contact reference. Four weeks on skins, aged in botti. Argues the whole orange category by itself.

  • Rubentis Txakoli
    Ameztoi · Getaria, Spain

    Rosé pét-nat-adjacent from the Basque coast. Salt, pressure, and something like green apple.

  • Cuvée Tradition Tibouren
    Clos Cibonne · Provence, France

    Under-veil-aged rosé from an obscure grape. Drinks like a light red with an argument.

  • Pithos Rosso
    COS · Sicily, Italy

    Frappato and Nero d'Avola in amphora. Chillable, red-fruited, no makeup.

  • Costa Bruna Barbera d'Alba
    Poderi Colla · Piedmont, Italy

    Acid-driven Barbera with no oak agenda. The red-sauce answer.

  • SP68 Rosso
    Arianna Occhipinti · Sicily, Italy

    The gateway bottle for an entire generation of natural drinkers. Still holds up.

  • Langhe Nebbiolo
    De Forville · Piedmont, Italy

    Barolo's grammar at a Tuesday price. Tar, rose, grip.

  • Teroldego
    Foradori · Trentino, Italy

    Elisabetta Foradori's biodynamic reference. Dark, cool, savory.

  • Ploussard
    Overnoy-Houillon · Jura, France

    The bottle that converted the somm. Pale, wild, impossible to find.

  • Les Choisilles Montlouis
    François Chidaine · Loire, France

    Dry Chenin with chalk and quince. Bends around almost any table.

  • KO Sauvignon
    Clos du Tue-Boeuf · Loire, France

    Sauvignon Blanc rescued from its reputation. Smoke, salt, no grapefruit cliché.

  • Morgon
    Marcel Lapierre · Beaujolais, France

    The natural-wine founding document. Chill it fifteen minutes.

  • Cuvée Sainte-Anne
    Chartogne-Taillet · Champagne, France

    Grower Champagne that tastes like a place instead of a brand.

  • Benje Tinto
    Envínate · Tenerife, Spain

    Volcanic Listán Prieto. Ash, red fruit, altitude.

  • La Bota de Manzanilla
    Equipo Navazos · Sanlúcar, Spain

    Bone-dry, saline, alive. The most underpriced great wine on earth.

  • Inocente Fino
    Valdespino · Jerez, Spain

    Single-vineyard fino, butt-aged, chalk to the finish.

  • Riesling Trocken
    Weingut Keller · Rheinhessen, Germany

    Dry Riesling with tension you can feel in your teeth.

  • Trousseau
    Arnot-Roberts · North Coast, California

    California proving it can do pale and nervy. Serve at cellar temp.

  • San Andreas Fault Pinot Noir
    Hirsch Vineyards · Sonoma Coast, California

    Fog-grown Pinot with cranberry bite and no California weight.

  • Maté's Vineyard Chardonnay
    Kumeu River · Auckland, New Zealand

    Burgundian in build, priced like it isn't. Flint and lemon curd.

  • Sydre Argelette
    Eric Bordelet · Normandy, France

    Cider from a former three-star somm. Twenty apple varieties, granite soil.

Cocktails